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  • Writer's pictureBob Croxton

Northern Greece - May 2019

Updated: Jan 6, 2023


Kirkini Harbour - Lake Kirkini, Northern Greece

Friday 3 May

Arrived in Thessaloniki Northern Greece late morning. Slow getting through immigration. We then drove to the west side of town to make a flying visit to Kalohori Lagoon. Plenty of waders, but a bit distant with a heat haze. Here I found that I was getting some double vision on my Swarovski binoculars. I met a well known Yorkshire birder, with experience of mending bins, but to no avail. Waders included Ruff, Spotted Redshank, Curlew Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet. Not brought a scope, so I was grateful to another birder who let me use his, to view a distant Broad-billed Sandpiper. Terns included Common, Little, Black and White-winged Black. Gulls included Black-headed Gulls, Yellow-legged, Slender-billed and a Little. Shelduck, Kestral, Crested Lark and Hoopoe.


Then drove east for a couple of hours to Porto Lagos to stay. A Cetti's Warbler was singing outside our apartment. Flying over were Grey Heron and Little Egret.


Also around

House Sparrow, Starling, Jackdaw, Magpie, Hooded Crow, Bee-eater, Common Buzzard, Swallow, House Martin.


Saturday 4 May

Saltpans to the west of Porto Lagos

Black-headed Bunting, Spanish Sparrow, Corn Bunting, Oystercatcher. Other waders all seemed to be Little Stints and Curlew Sandpiper.


Audina Lagoon

Lapwing, Glossy Ibis, Marsh Harrier, Great White Egret, Pygmy Cormorant.


Aragi Lagoon

Grey Plover, Kentish Plover, Squacco Heron.


Also around,

Turtle Dove Nightingale, Red-rumped Swallow, Mallard, Mute Swan, Chaffinch.


Sunday 5 May

Arrived at Audina Lagoon at dawn. A Bittern was booming from roadside rushes. Eventually found an uninspiring dirt track to Maddra Marsh, described in Gosney's guide. Soon came across several Spur-winged Plovers in a freshly ploughed field. At some ponds Little Grebe, Moorhen, Coot, Feruginous Duck and Great Reed Warbler. Greenshank on a small pool.


After breakfast went to visit Lake Ismarida the tracks were too wet to get to the best parts. New birds Cuckoo, Red-backed Shrike and Bee-eaters excavating holes. On a long dirt track north of Elos Lagoon Yellow Wagatil. A snack stop on a bridge, turned interesting, when two stints dropped in. They looked different to the hundreds seen so far. A quick look through bins suggested Temminck's. Managed one photo as they flew off. The white edges to the tail confirmed they were Temminck's. Two Stone Curlews were in field further on. For the second day running had lunch in the pleasent harbour town of Fanari. As on Saturday, the weather deteriorated in the afternoon, being overcast and windy with showers, making birding difficult.


Also around

Sand Martin, Ringed Plover.


Bee-eater - Lake Ismarida (Unusual nest, just a few feet from the ground)

Monday 6 May

Very overcast early. Morning walk around Porto Lagos very quiet, apart from a flock of several hundred Greater Flamingos flying west along the coast. Saltpans to the west of Porto Lagos Linnet, Redshank.


Then went to explore some of the sites from DG's book around the Nestos Delta. All the flooded fields described were dry and birdless. Eratino Lagoon had Greater Flamingos and a few Great Crested Grebes were on the sea. Midday we caught the ferry across from Keramoti to Linenas on the Isle of Thasis for lunch. Sea watching from the ferry was poor, just Yellow-legged Gull and Great Cormorant. Later in the afternoon went down a long dirt track to the Nestos Delta Reception Centre which was closed. Little other than lots of Nightingales. We then tried to get to a Raptor viewpoint as per DG's guide only to find the track impasable.


Early evening visited the Nestos Gorge. No raptors, but Blackbird, Chaffinch, Golden Oriole, Cliff Martin and Alpine Swift.


Tuesday 7 May

Audina Lagoon dawn, Gargany. Maddra Marsh a small pool next to rushes held a pair of Black-winged Stilts a Wood Sandpiper and Greenshank. Thinking it looked a likely spot for a rail I stayed a while. Then almost immediately a Water Rail appeared and chased the Greenshank away.

New on today 3 Spoonbill, several Whiskerd Terns. Hundreds of Common Swifts fed over the marshes for a while. Bitterns booming, Spur-winged Plover and many Squacco Heron.

By mid morning rain set in for most of the day. The highlight of a drive in the rain, was finding a flock of over 40 Collared Pratincoles. These were lined up along on a dirt track between the villages of Porpi and Paghouria. Went and had a late lunch in Fanari.


After the rain stopped, went back out early evening. Explored Church Marsh east of Porto Lagos. Only birds singing were Cetti's Warber, Nightingale and my first Common Reed Warbler. Afterwards drove through some wet grassland east of Lake Vistonida grazed by water buffalo. A Black Stork flew over, a Roller was typically on an overhead wire and a Cattle Egret was following the buffalo. Later back at Porto Lagos harbour, a Night Heron flew over.

Collared Prattincole (Very Wet!) - Between Porpi and Paghouria

Wednesday 8 May

Left Porto Lagos east to stay in the village of Tychero, near the Turkish border. A strange village with more bars than West Steet, Sheffield! Stopped and visited a number of sites at the western end of the Evros Delta, pretty quiet only adding Purple Heron and Calandra Lark. Spur-winged Lapwing showed well again.

Late afternoon drove to the top of Kapsalo Peak in the Forest of Dadia. Straight away had a Short-toed Eagle, but thereafter only a few very distant raptors.


Spur-winged Lapwing - Evros Delta

Levant Sparrowhawk - Evros Delta

Note - Due to the lack of dark wing tips at the time, I classed the above bird as a Sparrowhawk. Back home on the big screen, it looked nothing like a Sparrowhawk. It seems a bit of an oddball, compered to the one's in the I/D books. The narrow pointed wings with 4/5 primaries, short legs and tail, plus the grey head and dark eyes all point to it being a Levant Sparrowhawk. The nearest I can find, is plate 515 in 'Forsman, Flight Identification of Raptors of Europe etc'. This shows all the features of a 2nd year male, but the above bird show adult barring on the chest as opposed to Juvenile in 'Forsman'.


Thursday 9 May

A visit at sunrise to Thimaria Marsh. The marsh was unremarkable. The track past the marsh was more interesting. Lesser Grey and Red-backed Shrikes, Roller, Collared Prattincole, Great Reed Warbler, Black-headed Bunting, Hobby.


For a change a warm and sunny day which duly put some raptors up and many birds began to sing. Mid morning returned to drive up to the Kapsalo Peak. A raptor over woodland and rocky ground caused confusion, but turned out to be an immature Marsh Harrier. At the peak a few Griffon Vultures flew over. Highlight was at least 2, maybe more Golden Eagles. One immature was sky dancing. On the way back through the village of Lefkimi, a Black Vuture flew low over the road and gardens. Also around the first Great Tits (After 7 days), Woodchat Shrike, confirmed from photos Olive Tree Warbler the song seemed right. Later went up to the Dadia area. A Booted Eagle flew over persued by Hooded Crows. Struggling with the songs of some Sylvia warblers, particularly as the birds will not show.


Good butterfly day. Scarce Swallowtail, Clouded Yellow, Orange Tip, Small Tortoiseshell, Painted Lady and at least 3 fritillaries to be be determined from photos.


Black Vulture - Lefkimi (Waiting for info about this wing-tagged bird from the Dadia NP)

Friday 10 May

Heavy rain early morning resulted in a rare lay-in. Late morning the sun came out and we went on a long circular drive around the Dadia Forest. A few new butterflies Red Admiral and Wall Brown. It then became very overcast and a thunderstorm came mid afternoon. New birds White Wagtail, Song Thrush, Cirl Bunting, Grey Wagtail, Bonelli's Warbler heard. Raptors today Buzzard 3, Short-toed Eagle 2, Black Vulture 1.


Saturday 11 May

Because of all the rain yesterday, decided to stay off untarmaced roads. Went back to Kapsalo Peak. Despite the sunshine raptors were scarce around the peak. Buzzard, Short-toed and Booted Eagle in the foothills. A very showy Nightingale sang out in the open on a dead branch. New birds Jay and Long-tailed Tits. Midday visited a cafe in Lefkimi, the small building on the left at the top of the village square. We can recommend the home made products, made by Alexandra and her husband. Alexandra kindly left the cafe and took us on tour of the village including a 13th century chapel.


In the hope that today's sun would have dried out the tracks on the military part of the Evros Delta, we set off with our permits to visit. Not quiet as easy to find as it says in DG's guide. Just before you get to the military check point, you have to cross a causeway over a river. Because of the rain, it had become a deep ford. We dare not risk taking the hire car through the foot plus deep water, therefore I missed out on the chance to visit one of Europe's top bird sites. There may be another way onto the reserve from Feres, but it would require many kilometres of off roading, to get to the checkpoint. Only birds of note a Pygmy Cormorant and several Collared Prattincole, which as often happens, allowed close approach. Two Glass Snakes (Large legless lizards).



Sunday 12 May

Early morning visit on a bright and sunny day back to Thimaria Marsh, was cut short due to the track being flooded. A Great Reed Warbler sang out in the open next to the road as consulation. Then went back to the area next to Lefkima. An Eastern Olivaaveous Warbler showed briefly. After breakfast we left Tychero west to stay on the coast at Nea Iraklitsa, near Kavala. On the way re-visited the western end of the Evros Delta Park, driving down the 'strip club road'. Roads had dried out ok here. Nothing new Little and Great White Egrets, Purple and Squacco Herons, Marsh Harriers and many Bee-eaters. Called in at some of the sites in the Port Lagos area, again nothing new. Picked up a couple of Little Owls enroute. Our £54 a night villa is superb, with a vista out to sea, Nightingale singing in the garden and Red-rumped Swallows overhead.


Monday 13 May

Breakfast from our villa's balcony was interesting with a few Palid Swifts flying round and a Hoopoe calling nearby. Main reason for choosing our current location was to visit nearby Mount Pangeo. A long drive up through forests was fairly quiet. Once parked up at over 5,000 feet, a few birds began to appear in the cool overcast conditions. A pair of Ortolan Bindings fed next to the car, Northern Weatear were the commonest bird. A Cuckoo showed briefly. Way up on the hillside a flock of over 20 Alpine Choughs circled. Managed a couple of distant shots to confirm identification. Walked another 500 feet higher, but the Chough's only gave brief views. On the way down a male Rock Thursh. Driving back down the mountain added Robin, Mistle Thrush and Linnet to the trip list.


Tuesday 14 May

Time to move on again and leave the coast. This time inland to the village of Kerkini, next to the huge Lake Kerkini. Enroute made a detour to another ski resort called Falakro. A total punt here, does not feature in DG's guide. The road climbs to neatly 6,000 feet. From near the top of the road Rock Thrush and around the car park Linnet, many Northern Wheatears, Alpine Chough, Black Redstart and Water Pipit.


The rest of the day was quiet despite driving through some intesting habitats and spectacular scenery. On ariving at Lake Kerkini, I found some pelicans on the edge of the lake. Being on a busy road, a quick look showed their lower beaks to be yellow, indicating White Pelican. Later managed a photo of one, and after some studying, identification was confirmed as of being immature Dalmatian Pelican. Two Black Kites on entering Kerkini, after another poor day for raptors.


About

Great Spotted Woodpecker.


Wednesday 15 May

Mostly sunny day with showers. Early morning Common Sandpiper by the side of Lake Kerkini. Near the harbour at Kerkini, I heard some birds calling from a tree. Totally baffled eventually I caught site and they were recently fledged Grey-headed Woodpeckers. Later I heard an adult calling. A female Cirl Bunting was building a nest nearby. Then went on a clockwise drive around Lake Kerkini. At Mandraki harbour, it was superb for herons. Little Bittern, Grey, Purple, Squacco and Night Heron. Tree Sparrows common round here. The northeast corner of the lake turned out to be productive. During a thunderstorm found a Spur-winged Lapwing, which I presume is quiet rare around here. Flagged down two mini buses on a bird tour with guides, who missed the plover! Later found a couple of Lesser Grey Strikes and many posing Bee-eaters. Then came across a German couple watching a group of Rosy-coloured Starlings.



Thursday 16 May

Early morning walk, found nothing new. Highlights were a calling male Grey-headed Woodpecker on a pole, that I walked up to. A walk up a track in DG's guide. Apart from a low Booted Eagle, quiet bird wise, very good for butterflies and dragonflies some work to do on i/d back home. Rest of the day uneventful, until a Honey Buzzard late afternoon.


Honey Buzzard - Near Kirkini

Friday 17 May

Early morning walk to the harbour and back at Kirkini. Nothing new, of interest, up to 4 Cuckoo's chasing each other about and a couple of Grey-headed Woodpeckers showed well. Later a drive up into the mountains bordering Bulgaria near Vironeia. More butterflies to identify back home and a very approachable Glass Snake sunning itself. A Griffon Vulture was soaring very high along the border. What should be the "bird of the trip", turned up when Maureen said "what's that raptor on my side of the car"? I immediately identified it as a Levant Sparrowhawk, which shows the value of spending years looking at bird books. Photos confirmed, it was an adult male. Other than a Black Kite, little else of bird interest for the rest of the day.


Early evening went for a meal at Elodia Cafe, between Kirkini and the harbour. We were the only people, there in an establishment that probably seats around 300! Sitting next to the pond is interesting. Nightingales singing, Tree Sparrows hunting for insects, around tables. Maureen fed the unused dry bread to the fish and Coypu. Very surprisingly the giant frogs, were scoffing down the bread as well!


Saturday 18 May


Two hour walk around Kirkini village and lake from sunrise. Following birds seen;


Mallard, Grey/Purple Herons, Little Egret, White/Black Storks, Dalmatian Pelican, Great/Pygmy Cormorant, Great Crested Grebe, Kestral, Collared Dove, Cuckoo, Crested Lark, Bee-eater, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Barn/Red-rumped Swallows, House Martin, Nightingale, Eastern Olivatious/Great Reed/Cetti's Warblers, Hooded Crow, Magpie, Golden Oriole, Starling, House/Tree/Spanish Sparrows.


Until mid afternoon when the temperature soared to 27c, explored all the drivable tracks on the west side of Lake Kerkini. Starting in the south near Himaros.


Again struggling to find warblers, but had an Eleonora's Falcon, Honey Buzzard and Short-toed Eagle. Another track, just north of Lithotopos, produced good views of an Olive Tree Warbler. The next track mentioned in DG's guide north, had male Eastern Sub-alpine Warbler. The last track nearer to Kerkini finally yielded a Masked Strike. Another good butterfly day, with lots of work to do studying photos, back home.


Sunday 19 May


Early morning walk to the harbour and back at Kerkini. New birds in the shape of Greylag Goose and a male Penduline Tit. The Grey-headed Woodpeckers were being very social again coming very close. We then left Kerkini to stay a night on the coast, near Thessaloniki. Stopped at a few sites to the southwest of Lake Kerkini. The track with Olive Tree Warblers yesterday was productive, with at least 3 birds present. The last track had a Masked Shirike, two Lesser Grey Strikes and a Short-toed Eagle.

Olive Tree Warbler Grey-headed Woodpeckers - Lake Kerkini

Note - The red on the forehead of the male Grey-headed Woodpecker to the right above, often cannot be seen from the side.


Monday 20 May

Kitros Lagoon

Visit at dawn, to these saltpans and marshes. It's supposed to be a good site for larks and pipits, but I only found Crested Lark. On the pans, good numbers of Greater Flamingos, a small flock of Slender-billed Gulls and Avocets was all of note. It was then time for the flight home.


Butterfly list (Some more fritillaries to ID yet)

Scarce Swallowtail, Eastern Bath White, Orange Tip, Clouded Yellow, Southern White Admiral, Iolas Blue, Small Tortoiseshell, Red Admiral, Painted Lady, Comma, Cardinal Fritillary, Spotted Fritillary, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Marsh Fritillary, Lattice Brown.


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