Traveling to and around Iceland
I flew with EasyJet from Manchester to Keflavík International Airport, South of Reykjavík, basic cost of the flight was reasonable, but EasyJet do charge a lot more than Ryanair for hand and hold luggage, which tripled the flight cost. Also consider Icelandair for offers and EasyJet have just started flights to the Northern city of Akureyri, which are worth considering, if you just wish to visit North Iceland. The cost of most goods and services in Iceland is considerably more than in the UK. Car hire in particular, although a 4X4 Dacia Duster (Recommended), was not a lot more than a small hatchback. Diesel for the 4X4 was just under £2 a Litre. To the best of my knowledge all fuel pumps are pay by card, with cheaper fuel in the larger towns. There are plenty of stations in the remote areas, but more expensive. Main roads are in very good condition, but expect to travel on a lot of dirt/gravel roads, which vary from good to rough in condition. They can be muddy and for the last few days of my visit very dry and dusty. Try to stay on the right side of the law while driving as I understand the fines for motor offences are punitive. I was told to make sure I park my car facing the direction of travel as the police often prosecute if you don’t. Even by mid-June many roads are still closed due to snow/thawing snow the following web site shows the current road conditions https://umferdin.is/en It is possible to hire basic camper vans and for two the money saved on accommodation may be a good option, though in most cases you will have to pay for campsites, as at many locations overnight parking is prohibited. Most tourists and coaches seem to travel around Iceland on the No. 1 Road anticlockwise and this road can by very busy at times making birding from the car difficult. I found the roads around the central and northern Fjords, mostly quiet, with plenty of opportunities to stop for the wildlife.
Accommodation & Eating
Most nights I stayed in a hostel for around £50 a night, great on the 3 nights it was quiet in the hostel and I had rooms to myself, not so good the 3 nights, I had to share a small room. I also spent 3 nights in a hotel type hostel where I had a room to myself, which was also self-catering as the hostels for about £65. Expect to pay a lot more for a hotel, B&B etc. I took a lot of my own food in the way of microwavable rice, Batchelors Pasta ‘n’ Sauce and stir fry noodles along with tinned fish and sauces. For the rest of my food I went to Bonus and Netto supermarkets in the larger towns, which as seems the custom in Iceland do not open until 10 am. If you like a drink, then I suggest you purchase from the duty free as you leave the airport, considerably cheaper than elsewhere in Iceland, where you can only buy from government owned shops with a tax of 60%. A large beer in Sauòarkrókur when I wanted to spend my last local currency was about £9. The pub did not open until 9 pm., and the locals apparently do not come out until midnight! Eating out again is expensive, small takeaway fish & chips £11, Pizza £19, small chicken burger £19. No need to take any Icelandic Krona, as everywhere seems to take cards and many places cards only.
Weather
Over my ten days, I could not ask for better weather conditions. The first few days were very cold with a strong northerly wind, overcast early morning but brighter midday and light rain from mid-afternoon. There had been unseasonably heavy late snow, just prior to my visit in the north, only the coast was snow free. This had the advantage of keeping many birds, that would be on the uplands down on the coast. Thereafter apart from a few misty mornings, it was none stop sun with temperatures reaching 20C one day.
Wildlife
Bird life is almost everywhere, bar the most barren landscapes. All the breeding waders except the very rare Grey Phalarope are easy to find, even in towns and up in the mountains, Snipe particularly so. With the exception of Brunnich's Guillemot, most of Iceland’s breeding seabirds were found with ease, harbours always worth a look for the more uncommon gulls. I missed out on Great Skua as they mostly breed outside the areas I visited. Some duck species tend to be rather local, but if you visit enough habitats, most should be seen. The two divers are encountered on a regular basis, as are the two species of geese, but in the north at least Greylag seemed to outnumber Pink-footed. In the north passerines other than Wheatear, Redwings, White Wagtails and in urban areas Starlings are hard to come by. Snow Buntings were found once. I eventually found Redpol, one Blackbird, but failed on Goldcrest and Wren. The two raptors Merlin and Gyrfalcon, just hope and pray. I made no attempt to find White-tailed Eagle in the North Western Fjords and barely touched on their breeding areas. Three sighting of Arctic Foxes, all early morning or late in the evening. Did my whale trip from Húsavíc using ‘Friends of Moby Dick’, which was a converted trawler as opposed to the highspeed speedboats. There are many other whalewatching trips from other towns. I was concerned about my camera equipment on the speedboats and they cost twice as much as the trawlers! The speedboats have the advantage of getting to the whales quicker, on the trawlers you have a higher view to see further and keep dry. All the operators seem to keep in touch by radio, so you all see the same whales.
Location in brackets are where I stayed the night
Thursday 6 June (Broddanes)
Landed at Keflavík International Airport south of Reykjavík at 8.00 am.
Airport grounds
Snipe displaying over airport grass. Lesser Black-backed Gull and Black-tailed Godwit flew over, while waiting for the bus to car hire.
Keflavík area
Eider Duck, Greylag Goose, Mallard, Starling. Golden Plover and Redshank on roadside verges.
Drive north
Many displaying Snipe. A stop by a wood found the first Redwing and a dead Wood Mouse. Oystercatcher, Arctic Tern, Arctic Skua, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Wheatear, Black-headed Gull, Raven, Whooper Swan.
Vestfirôir Peninsular
After a fairly quiet drive up the Western side it all kicked off, as did the rain when I crossed over to the Eastern side, being the Western side of Fúnaflói Fjord and the inlets of Steingrimsfjörôur and Kollafó. Red-throated Diver, Red-breasted Merganser, Whimbrel, Dunlin, Black Guillemot. A small wader landed on the sea, my first of many Red-necked Phalarope. Then a gull feast Glaucous Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, Herring Gull, Common Gull. Fulmers were nesting on the cliff edges along the road. Grey Seals off the coast. A drive up a track next to a fast-flowing river produced the first male Harlequin Duck, flying past. First few Meadow Pipits on the grass next to the river. One of the few Cormorants of the trip was recorded. My first coastal hostel had 2 Ringed Plover in the car park. Many Arctic Terns over the grounds and more Black Guillemots, plus Puffins on the sea. A walk along the shoreline from the hostel after 10 pm in bitter freezing conditions, found Snipe, Redshank, Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Golden Plover and the first Turnstones. Around 50 Arctic Terns feeding over washed up seaweed.
Friday 7 June (Ósar)
Opened the curtains a few times overnight to see the Arctic Terns feeding all night, along with drumming/chipping Snipe in the hostel grounds as well.
Broddanes
Pre-breakfast, left hostel at 3.30 am. returned to Thursday's river in the hope of more Harlequin Duck, eventually finding a pair which posed close to my car. Found a rockface with nesting Black Guillemot. Back on the seaweed beach next to my hostel new birds in summer plumage Sanderling and Knot and several Red-necked Phalarope. First White Wagtail.
Bitrufjödur
Steady passage of Glaucous Gulls, first Kittiwakes, Shags and a pair of Long-tailed Duck.
Miôfjöröur and around the north of the Vatnsnes Peninular
Not as close to the sea as the morning drive. First Harlequin Duck on the sea and countless Snipe displaying. Rain again came mid-afternoon.
Ósar
Early evening visited an impressive rock stack just off the coast. Nesting Kittiwakes and Fulmers only birds on nests. On a short drive later, I observed Arctic Fox on two occasions. Typically, in the hostel grounds Whimbrel, Snipe and Redshank.
Saturday 8 June (Sauðárkrókur)
Heavy rain early meant a rare lay in, by 9 am. it was down to light rain, but 2c and a very strong northerly wind. Redwing in the small wood by the hostel.
Skagaströnd
Sun came out and finally a photogenic Redwing. Just outside town a Short-eared Owl, perched on a fence post with its back to me, but before it could turn around it was bombed by two Snipe and flew off. An Ivory Gull had been in the harbour 2 days prior to my arrival.
Kálfshamarsvík
Red-necked Phalarope being very approachable on the shoreline. Then 5 fed on a small pool next to the road, heaven! Three females and two males, with the slightly larger females constantly attacking any males that came close. Sanderling and the first and only Purple Sandpiper. Red-throated Diver on an island nest close to road. Glaucous Gull flew over.
Hraun
While driving through a farmyard a big surprise, a male Snow Bunting. Nearby a dark and pale phase pair of Arctic Skua were dive bombing sheep and making contact, that I presume were too close to their nest.
Tindastoll Ski Area
Despite deep snow a few birds were present on the bare areas Golden Plover, Meadow Pipit, Wheatear.
Sunday 9 June (Sauðárkrókur)
Sauðárkrókur
Early morning drizzle soon stopped and the cold Arctic wind had finally stopped. Lake to South had a colony of Black-headed Gulls and the first Tufted Duck and Wigeon.
Drove up a valley to some fish ponds at Hólar hoping for Barrow's Goldeneye, but got a pair of Gadwall and Long-tailed Duck instead. Some forestry in this area, increased the numbers of Redwing. Driving back to Sauðárkrókur I finally found a bird that has eluded me for years Ptarmigan. Totally out of place behind a gate into a conifer plantation, at a fairly low altitude. On the way back to Sauòarkrókur for breakfast, a party of Shelduck the only ones of the trip. Mid-morning walk up and along the wooded hillside to the west of Sauðárkrókur, plenty of Redwing and the first and only Blackbird, an uncommon bird in Iceland.
Reykir - Grettislaug
Most of the afternoon spent at the old jetty/harbour to the island of Drangey. The boat trip I had booked was cancelled a few days ago, due to the strong winds of late. Ironically today was by far the calmest day so far. The sun came out and I had more great views and photo opportunities with Red-necked Phalarope, this time they were paired up, coming ridiculously close to me as I sat on a rock. Also, a great opportunity with the light to photograph loads of Arctic Terns. Notable how there are few young Eider Duck. Talking to the owner of the cafe there, the strong winds and cold weather of late had destroyed a lot of nests due to wave action on the islands.
Lake to SW of Sauðárkrókur looked fairly quiet from a distance, but held two Slovenian Grebes and two Great Northern Divers. I then noted 7 Geese flying away from me which landed in a distant field, Canada Geese! Aparently genuine birds from Canada and the rable from Europe can turn up! Sat in the car by the waters side in the hope something would come close, eventually a pair of Slovenian Grebes came right up to the edge, seemingly looking for a nest site.
Monday 10 June (Reykjahlíð, Lake Mývatn)
Left Sauòarkrókur heading NE at 4.30 am. Just out of town a pair of Greater Scaup. Further on a roadside Arctic Fox actually stopped and posed for my camera. Although just above sea level, I disturbed several Ptarmigan by the roadside as I drove past.
Stopped at a view point at the top of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula overlooking a very calm Arctic Ocean. Just the commoner seabirds with Black Guillimot the only auk and no sign of any sea mammals.
Siglurförour
Red-necked Phalarope on the ornamental pond and everywhere else, more Scaup, and Sanderling with the other waders in the mud flats.
Ólafafjörour
White-winged Gull flew over as I entered the town. Glaucous Gull found later perched on rocks. Many Fulmers on the sea at the harbour entrance.
Hjaleyri
Female Ptarmigan in top of pine tree.
Lake Másvatn
Large lake with a noisy Great Northern Diver, which is the first time I have heard their far-reaching evocative call. With the scope, I picked out 3 pair of Common Scoter (Would see more, but aways very wary and out of camera's reach). Dunlin around the edge. Further on at a river torrent Laxá Í Adaldal the first Barrow's Goldeneye and Harliquin Duck again after a few days.
Lake Mývatn Destination for the next four days. Lots of ducks and Red-necked Phalarope on the lake. Early evening at Skútustaðir close views of Slavonian Grebes and Long-tailed Duck and more Red-necked Phalaropes.
A visit to Lava field reserve Dimmuborgir found a distant male Merlin, preening on top of a rock for a prolonged period.
Tuesday 11 June (Reykjahlíð, Lake Mývatn)
A misty start to the morning which soon cleared.
Drove to Húsavíc to go Whale watching. It was still misty over the sea and it was over an hour before the one and only Humpback showed fairly close to the boat. Otherwise the sea was unremarkable, just loads of Puffins, Fulmars and a few Black Guillemots. Two days previous, a Black-browed Albatross was seen from a boat trip here.
In the afternoon I visited a number of cliffs Őxarfjöròur in the hope of Brünnich's Guillemot no sign of that species or even Common Guillemot. Perhaps the cold stormy weather before I arrived had made them desert. The Puffins which live in burrows were a plenty. Rest of the afternoon much the same birds as Monday including a handful of Ptarmigan.
Skútustaðir, Lake Mývatn
Unbelievably, while I was sat in the car writing my daily diary at 8:30 pm a white morph Gyrfalcon (Probably an adult female) landed nearby with a duck and I spent ages watching it eat its meal. After the falcon flew away, when someone drove down a nearby track, I went and examined the duck, which I am pretty sure was a female Pintail, a species I was not to see alive in Iceland.
Wednesday 12 June (Reykjahlíð, Lake Mývatn)
Breakfast was enhanced when a Ptarmigan flew past the dining room window and landed on a nearby roof.
Target species today was Redpol. So, spent early morning walking round trails through woodland. Eventually about 9:30 am at a nature reserve called Höfői Woodlands three Redpols flew across part of the lake chasing each other. Despite searching most of the morning, could not find a photogenic one. Returned to this location mid evening one Redpol put in a very brief distant appearance, before flying off. At least 4 Snipe drumming over the woodland.
The rest of the day was spent around Lake Mývatn just trying to improve on the photos of the area's specialities. Barrow's Goldeneye, Harliquin Duck, Long-tailed Duck, Great Northern Diver etc, being fairly successful.
As I find in Lesvos, Eastern Austria, a well know lake near me etc. the average bird photographer seems to have no tact! Instead of sitting in a car waiting for the birds to come close, they just jump out and charge to the waters edge scaring all the birds away. On one instance today by a lake, I was mostly hidden behind a mound of grass photographing Harlquin Ducks, Barrow's Goldeneye, Long-tailed Duck, Dunlin etc at close quarters, only to see a couple arive with cameras, charge up and sit by the edge of the lake photographing very little!
Thursday 13 June (Reykjahlíð, Lake Mývatn)
Early morning return to Húsavíc Harbour with a few Ptarmigan on the way. Sat in the car for a few hours watching the gulls on the beach to the south of the harbour, in the hope of a White-winged Gull, just one Glaucous Gull. Most of the afternoon spent photographing the same species again, Red-necked Phalarope, Slavonian Grebe, Barrow's Goldeneye, Harlequin Duck etc.
A return visit in the evening to Höfői Woodlands to try and photograph the elusive Redpol, did manage to get decent shots of a female. On my Icelandic bird guide, this site is down as having Woodcock and I did put up from the woodland floor two possibles. Only issue is; there are Snipe continually drumming overhead and chipping from inside the wood, so not certain? Given 24 hours of daylight when would Woodcock rode? Snipe drum/chip all night long.
Friday 14 June (Sauðárkrókur)
At breakfast a Ptarmigan flew by the window, landed and went under the hostel!
At Ólafsfjörður Harbour my first Iceland Gull. Large numbers of Fulmars feeding on what I presume is dumped fish offal. The Fulmars seemed to be dominating the Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls to feed.
Passed a female Merlin on a gate post, the same spot I had my first Ptarmigan, she had flown away by the time I turned around and returned.
Saturday 15 June
Left Sauðárkrókur for the long drive to the Kolgafafjōröur Peninsular using the busy 1 Road finding little on the way.
Kolgafafjōröur Peninsuler
Several hundred male Eiders in a close flock.
Glaucous Gulls fairly common out West.
Öndverðarnesviti
Another try for Brunnick's Guillimot failed again, with an information sign stating that they are becoming rare! Did find new birds in Common Guillemots, Razerbills and passing Gannets. Just to top off the trip, a passing pod (Family) of Killer Whales passed by, enabling good views of at least 1 large male, a smaller female and two smaller presumed juveniles. As I headed back to the airport making an overnight drive, two more Arctic Foxes put in an appearance.
Sunday 16 June
Not quite a midnight sun, which set behind mountains. Birds active all night on the overnight drive back to the airport, particularly Snipe and Redwing. While driving through Reykjavík at 2:42 am. a Black Rabbit on a roadside verge! Arctic foxes are the only native land mammal, but Brown Rat House Mouse, Wood Mouse and American Mink are esapees, as I presume the rabbit.
Flew back to Manchester at 0855 hrs with EasyJet, trains home on time.
Insects
Several moth species, all very dainty and flighty pug types. Bumbles bees seen on a number of occasions, again very flighty and one hoverfly. Many midges near water, but I never got bitten.
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