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  • Writer's pictureBob Croxton

Islay & Jura Autumn 2018 Trip Report

Updated: Jan 31, 2021


Islay Saturday 27 October

My third visit following on from 2002 and 2011 to Islay and Jura

Caught the 1:00 pm ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig. Glorious sunny day, but a strong northerly wind made birding difficult from the ferry. Birds seen included Red-breasted Merganser, Great Northern Diver, White-tailed Eagle, Kittiwake, Black Guillemot, Shag. Drove the minor road from Ballygrant picked up Stonechat, Mistle Thrush, Starling, Blackbird, Robin, Chaffinch, Hen Harrier, Common Buzzard and a few White-fronted Geese. Once unpacked at our cottage in Bowmore, a quick dash around to Blackrock where a flock of Scaup were just offshore. A huge flock of Barnacle Geese were in the bay off Bridgend. A small flock of Whooper Swans flew over Bowmore at dusk.


Islay Sunday 28 October

Another dawn to dusk sunny day, but much calmer and warmer. Managed to get to Gruninart Flats for sunrise to witness the huge numbers of Greenland White-fronted and Barnacle Geese leave their evening roost on Loch Gruninart to feed on the grasslands. Then drove to Ardnave Loch where a number of Whooper Swan families were present along with Mute, Goldeneye and Little Grebe. The walk over the machair to Ardnave Point, apart from the spectacular views to Colonsay, Mull and Jura, was full of birdlife. Newley arrived Icelandic Redwings covered the ground, many being very approachable. In the air Choughs, Ravens and what was presumed to be the same ring-tailed Hen Harrier, showed on 4 occasions. Highlight was a number of small flocks of Twite with a few Brambling and Reed Buntings. Snipe regularly flew up from damp areas. Drove to Port Charlotte where a Great Northern Diver still in breeding plumage was close inshore. At Portnahaven Grey and Common Seals were present. Eiders and Red-breasted Mergansers offshore back at Bowmore.


Twite - Ardnave

Islay Monday 29 October

Colder wetter and windier today. Dawn walk around the harbour at Bowmore found single Dunnock and Rock Pipit cleaning fish waste from the fishing boats. Travelled to the southern side of the island through very heavy rain, to find it dry along the coast. A male Hen Harrier flew across the road near the airport. Not as many birds as yesterday in the north. At Loch an t-Sailein just past Ardbeg, lots of birds had took to the air, this included Barnacle Geese, Golden Plover, Curlew etc. Common Seals out on the rocks. Red-breasted Mergansers present in good numbers. Later back at Port Ellen Ringed Plover and Oystercatchers. A visit to the RSPB reserve at "The Oa" found little other than corvids in very windy conditions. Returning to Bowmore by the old road found a large flock of Whooper Swans in a stubble field at Gartloist. The flock of Scaup at Blackrock are still showing well.


Islay Tuesday 20 October

Mostly sunny and clear until light cloud from mid-afternoon. Small flock of Red-breasted Merganser off Bowmore Distillery. The road to Kilchoman had good numbers of Chaffinches, with occasional Brambling mixed in. Choughs and Ravens by the deserted church. Field full of Whooper Swans and Greylag Geese at Sunderland Farm. At Machair Bay quiet, apart from Turnstone and Ringed Plovers with the gulls on the beach. Driving back round to Loch Gruinart lots of Redwings and the usual masses of Geese on the flats. To the west of the lane to Ardnave a Golden Eagle flew past just as I had to pull over for a lorry, meaning just one photo for confirmation. At Ardnave Loch just Mute Swans. A short walk on the machair found a few Choughs, Meadow Pipits and Redwingss. A male Roe Deer showed well on the way back down the lane. A drive back to Bowmore via some back lanes found lots of Buzzards and near Loch Talliant an immature Golden Eagle flew over and landed on a fence post to be mobbed by 2 Ravens for several minute.


Golden Eagle & Buzzard (Showing the different profiles)

Islay - Wednesday 31 October

Dry at first, then rain until mid-afternoon. A drive up the east side of Loch Gruinart to Killinallin found Dunlin, Turnstone, Redshank and a Little Egret. Then the rain set in and made birding difficult on a drive up to Portahaven and back, still lots of Redwings, but very quiet on the sea other than a few Red-breasted Mergansers. Lots of birds close in on Loch Indaal near Bridgend , the usual thousands of Barnacle Geese, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Bar-tailed Godwits, Knots, Teal and Wigeon.


Little Egret - Loch Gruinart

Islay - Thursday 1 November

Changeable weather today, sunny with sharp showers. A visit today to the east side of Islay, first the coast between Port Ellen and Claggain Bay. Surprise of the trip so far was finding 2 (November!) Swallows at Lagavulin Bay at 1030 and upon returning at 1300, 3 swallows were present, all feeding in the sunshine. Also at this location a Grey Wagtail feeding on the beach. Otherwise all of interest was at least 5 Great Northern Divers and a few Rock Pipits on the rocky parts of the coast. A stunning Red Deer stag posed right next to the road to us. A drive to The Oa and back found little other than Buzzards and a Golden Eagle.

Swallow - Red Deer - Rock Pipit, Lagavulin to Claggain Bay

Islay - Friday 2 November

Sunny morning, becoming cloudy. Bowmore harbour area six Red-breasted Mergansers. Cluanach male Hen Harrier. East side of Loch Gruninart Little Egret, several Sanderling and two Greenshank. An Carnan Peregrine Falcon. West end of Loch Gorm Sparrowhawk. Near Sunderland Farm a couple of Brambling mixed into a large flock of Chaffinches. On entering Bowmore from Bridgend the c30 Scaup flock from Blackrock had moved across the bay and were close inshore.

Scaup - Bowmore

Jura - Saturday 3 November

Very cloudy and windy, occasional showers clearing late afternoon. Left Islay for the Isle of Jura, with Cal Mac ferries out of action for most of the day, a phone call to the Jura ferry resulted in a panic, when they said last ferry 11:15 am, due to winds and tide. Rushed across and after a rough ride arrived on Jura. Many Red Deer, Buzzards, Kestrel, Sparrowhawk, Red-breasted Mergansers, Common Gulls, Stonechats, Redwings, Chaffinches. Three Lesser Redpolls just to the north of Craighouse.


Jura - Sunday 4 November

Sunny for most of the day, with a strong wind at first. From our base in Craighouse drove to the north end of the island and back. The bits of pasture on the island, many held flocks of Redwings, with occasional Song and Mistle Thrushes. A few Rock Pipits were feeding on seaweed by the shore. While driving through woodland past Ardlussa a Woodcock by the side of the road casually walked off into the wood. Several sightings of ring-tailed Hen Harriers, plus numerous Buzzards. Long stops in a number of calm bays paid off, when Otters were found hunting in Ardlussa and Tramiag Bays. At a place called Eagadale a distant long winged raptor was being mobbed by a smaller raptor, with the sun behind, a difficult challenge. Eventually the larger raptor flew close and turned out, unexpectedly to be a Red Kite. On our return to Craighouse a White-tailed Eagle was found over moorland at Tarbert. Nearby a Red Grouse was calling, still not seen one in the Southern Hebrides!


Otter - Tramaig Bay, Jura

Red Kite (Immature) - Eagadale, Jura

White-tailed Eagle - Tarbert, Jura

Jura - Monday 5 November

A wet cloudy miserable day. In the morning drove to the ferry terminal at Feolin and back. Lots of Red Deer and Buzzards. Two White-tailed Eagles were perched on the ruins of Claig Castle, the island on the Jura side, of the approach to Islay Sound. Out on Islay Sound, close in, two Otters feeding, 3 Great Northern Divers, Wigeon and Shags. A Sparrowhawk perched next to the road, tried to surprise a small bird, probably a Stonechat, after a short chase the small bird escaped. Otherwise several Curlews about, that had been scarce on Jura so far, was all of note. Due to the wet afternoon gave up on the wildlife, then did a tour and tasting session at the Jura Distillery.


Jura & Islay 6 November

A wet, windy and misty start to our journey home. Still too dark and dank to see anything on the journey across Jura to catch the 8:00 AM ferry back to Islay. Took the quiet lanes back across Islay to Port Ellen, a few flocks of White-fronted and Barnacle Geese, grazing on grassland, was all of note. The conditions outside on the Islay to Kennacraig ferry were grim, so stayed inside with the occasional look from the windows. Just a few Great Northern Divers and Eiders noted. Then the long drive home.

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